Juneau is Alaska’s capital city and one of only two US state capitals that cannot be reached by road (Honolulu being the other). There is something about that fact that tells you everything you need to know about what kind of place it is — remote, intentional, defined by its geography rather than despite it. Our port time was 2pm to 9pm which gave us a different rhythm than Sitka — less wandering time and more reason to be deliberate. We made every hour count.
Morning on the Ship — Glaciers at Breakfast
With a later port arrival we had a full morning on board and Alaska made sure we didn’t waste it. We woke naturally and the glacier views had already begun — the ship did a full rotation at the glacier so both sides could take it in, which meant we didn’t feel pressure to be up on deck at 6:30am. The views found us on their own schedule and they were worth every groggy moment of appreciation.
After breakfast the kids headed to Ocean Adventure, while Matt and I hit the gym. Afterwards, Easton played basketball and putt putt with me and his grandfather on the sports deck, and Milo and Matt did a family arts and crafts session making unicorn crafts in the kids club area. The morning had that particular cruise ship ease — enough going on that nobody was bored, slow enough that nobody was rushed. We also got to get in a kid free workout with a view!
Alaska Sled Dog and Musher’s Camp
This was the excursion of the trip. Our kids still talk about it.
We were shuttled up to the musher’s camp where 14 Alaskan huskies were waiting. Our musher had raised every single one of them from puppies. She knew each dog individually — their personalities, their relationships with each other, who leads and who follows and who needs a day off. She talked about them the way you talk about family.
We were placed on a sled — wheels instead of runners since there’s no snow in summer — and pulled through the Alaskan forest. Milo was laughing for the entire ride. Not the polite laugh of a kid trying to seem like they’re having fun. The full body, can’t help it, completely genuine laugh of a child being pulled through a forest by dogs. It was one of the sounds of the whole trip.
Our musher explained that the dogs rest when they want to, that most retire around age 10 and live out happy lives at the camp until 12-15. Animal welfare is clearly central to how she runs everything and that mattered to us as a family.
After the ride we got off the sled and met all 14 dogs. My personal favorite was Asta — one of only two females and the lead dog alongside her father. There was just an energy when I was petting her, a particular warmth, the way you sometimes connect with one animal in a group without being able to fully explain why.
And then the puppies. Four of them. Round and fluffy and wriggly and perfect. Milo lit up the way he always does around animals — immediate, open, completely in. Easton’s reaction was different and equally beautiful — he went quiet, picked one up carefully, and held it with the kind of deliberate gentleness that told you he understood exactly how small and precious the thing in his hands was. Two kids, same moment, completely different and completely themselves.
The bus ride back through Alaskan scenery ended downtown where we browsed a few shops before the rain moved in. We took the shuttle back to the ship rather than the one mile walk once it started coming down.
Alaska Sled Dog and Musher’s Camp excursion cost $200 per person at the time of this post.
Dinner on the Ship
After a big excursion day we were back on board for what became one of the most memorable dinners of the entire trip. The executive chef — from India, deeply passionate about his cuisine — had planned a special vegan Indian meal for Matt and I. A pea and potato samosa with mint chutney to start. Then rice, roti, and papadam alongside a main course that I couldn’t fully describe even if I tried because I was too absorbed in eating it to analyze it. Indian cuisine is my absolute favorite food in the world and this was the best Indian food I have ever eaten. Prepared on a cruise ship. In Alaska. By a chef who was genuinely excited to make it for us.
The kids had vegan pizza and vegan ice cream. For dessert Matt and I shared a lychee tart that tasted faintly like home.
After dinner the kids asked for one more Ocean Adventure session. Matt and I caught a live music performance in the theater — singers and a full orchestra — before picking them up and heading to bed.
Port time: 2pm to 9pm. We were back on ship by 6:30pm to make it to dinner instead of trying to find options for everyone at port.
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